Travelling in Romania, the EU's newest member, is like being somewhere between an eternal Halloween and the Led Zeppelin IV cover that features a twig-carrying farmer. Even in cities where Audis zoom across highways under video-camera speed traps, Romanian life is defined by its sweet country heart. Most anywhere, you'll spot horse-drawn buggies crossing the (often cratered) paved roads - up green mountains, past cone-shaped haystacks and herds of sheep - which bounce along as if the roads themselves are aliens to the land. And then there's that Dracula thing. Many visitors, lured by bloodcurdling tales, make full trips out of Transylvania's castles and lovely medieval Saxon towns like Sighisoara, where the 'real Dracula' (Vlad Tepes) first grew his teeth.